View of the Hastings Battlefield from the South
Hastings, England
Photograph by: Amanda Chain
The archaeologist in me is forever obsessed with ruins and times begone. It is only fitting that my time in England include a visit to arguably the most pivotal event in English history. Perhaps this will result in me visiting all the English Heritage and soon to be Historic England properties, but this one is especially of interest because it serves as one of the first English "memorials."
In 1066, the line of Saxon Kings came to a standstill at the death of Edward the Confessor. With a battle between his sons and invaders from the north, William the Duke of Normandy saw an opportunity. What became the Battle of Hastings between King Harold and William was one of the bloodiest moments in English history.The Saxon Army stood its ground along the ridge which now belongs to a school, against Norman forces attacking from the south. Approximately 14,000 men fought in what became one of the bloodiest sieges in English history for the sheer number of men that were wiped out.
Remnants of Battle Abbey
Battle, England
Photographed by: Amanda Chain
What makes the site so remarkable is that rarely do victors commemorate those that are defeated, and in this case that is precisely what William the Duke of Normandy and newly crowned King of England did. He ordered an Abbey to be built to mark the event and to pay respects to those that died, and for the High Altar to be placed on the exact spot of King Harold's tomb. Why he chose to do this is of interest. The concept of memorializing events doesn't really become a tradition until the Twentieth century after the World Wars, so why is it that William nearly 900 years prior feels the need to do this? The answer could only be in the scale. The scale of a loss of thousands of men in that time is equivalent to the loss felt during the World Wars. Chivalric code, perhaps, but my thoughts are that the new King of England wanted to make a noble gesture to his new people and the great loss of life felt throughout his new kingdom.
Monastic Quarters, Battle Abbey
Battle, England
Photograph by: Amanda Chain
Although little physically remains of the original abbey, there are visible vestiges of the monastic complex that was built subsequently. Little was altered on the Battlefield itself except for remnants of quarrying that took place once it became an estate.
The area is in a village known for little else, and the site itself is a tourist attraction for leisure walks and the appreciation of a bit of history. Under the period of its use as an estate, ponds were made to farm fish. Although not all of them are maintained, there is one particular spot where I took the photograph below to highlight the tranquility of the atmosphere even if you venture there on a grey day. When we visited there were a number of people out walking, and the trails are clearly marked with information about the Battle and the positions of the armies. There were a number of posts for those who rented audio-guides, but I'm afraid I have to admit I wasn't one of them.
Fish Pond at Battle
Battle, England
Photograph by: Amanda Chain
Although the site has an interpretation center with a café. I must say one of the highlights of my visit to Battle Abbey had to be the rustic café called Pilgrim's Rest. Especially on a cold grey day, this lovely spot had bright cheery faces that greeted us at the door. I had a sandwich made of melted brie and bacon on bread that had the thickness and softness of only freshly baked. I forgot that bread could taste this good. Not to mention the welcoming decor of magazines and newspapers. My real regret is that we could only stay an hour.
Pilgrim's Rest
Battle, England
Photographed by: Amanda Chain
The Battlefield and ruins of Battle Abbey represent what heritage in the Twenty-first Century has become. We will not be able to preserve the past and its building in their entirety. Not every structure we deem important was constructed to last imperpetuity. What we can preserve is the landscape and feel of places we deem culturally important. This site marks a major turning point in British history. It is the end of the Saxon line and the beginning of the line of current English rulers. And although we can't see the tomb of King Harold or the shrine William the Conqueror built to honor him, by visiting the site we can better understand the events that led to these moments and get a better feel for the importance of the event.
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