Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty @ The Victoria & Albert Museum

This weekend marked the opening of Savage Beauty at the Victoria & Albert Museum. And rather fittingly this post falls on what would have been the designer's 46th birthday. The Thursday Night Opening was a star-studded affair with all available super models and who's who in the fashion industry including Kate Moss who features in the exhibition, Naomi Campbell and Victoria Beckham. The event is based off of the Savage Beauty exhibit that took place in New York City in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, but this exhibition is a far grander affair.

I was lucky enough to procure myself a member's ticket for the Friday Preview Day and I was blown away by the exhibition. I have to admit that I knew very little about "Lee" McQueen before visiting the exhibition, but was drawn as I am sure anyone would be by the evident genius of his designs, not to mention the buzz that has been going about the exhibit all over London.

I walked in to a dark room. On the far wall was a screen covering the entire wall playing footage of some of his early work for Givenchy placed behind mannequins wearing grunge inspired outfits. Closest to me was a quote: 

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty 

Courtesy of the Victoria & Albert Museum

Photograph by: Amanda Chain

It becomes incredibly evident to the viewer the purpose and pride that the V&A have in displaying this exhibition. Alexander McQueen is a part of not just British culture, but far greater he is a local hero. The V&A makes it abundantly clear to you that they are about to marvel you with the largest collection of his work displayed in Europe, including pieces to delicate to travel, and making the exhibit more of a homecoming of Alexander and a celebration of his life as well as his work.

The next room, "A Romantic Mind," I was greeted with the work of his from his MA Fashion course at Central St. Martins. Understanding McQueen's beginnings is integral for understanding his work. The son of the taxi-driver, dropped out of school at 15 to become a tailor's apprentice. It is clear from his MA and early work that he is incredibly interested in form and figure. The clothes offer a sort of construction. Another McQueen quote mentioned that he spent years learning how to construct clothing before he could then deconstruct it. I was marveled by the cut of the jackets. One of my favorites was a simply cut blazer with a slit at the elbows that was apart of his final show during his MA. Below the jacket was a simple quote saying "Beneath every layer of skin, is blood." Highlighting both the blood-red lining of the jacket, but a bit of the dark side of his personality as well.

The next room was entitled "Romantic Goth." This room was echoed with deeply operatic music, giving the feeling that you left the early years of McQueen's world and have officially entered the world of high fashion. The stark difference wasn't color. Both rooms exhibited predominantly black pieces, the difference here was texture. This room featured work from his collection "Horn of Plenty" AW 2009/2010. I was amazed by the use of feathers. The first dress I saw was the famous duck feathered dress featured on all of the press pieces marketing the exhibit. I instantly thought of the poem "The Raven" by Edgar Allen Poe. The last two stanzas below:

"The Horn of Plenty" Autumn Winter 2009-2010

 Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty

Courtesy of the Victoria & Albert Museum

Photograph by: Amanda Chain

“Be that word our sign of parting, bird or fiend!” I shrieked, upstarting—

“Get thee back into the tempest and the Night’s Plutonian shore!

Leave no black plume as a token of that lie thy soul hath spoken!

Leave my loneliness unbroken!—quit the bust above my door!

Take thy beak from out my heart, and take thy form from off my door!”

Quoth the Raven “Nevermore.”

And the Raven, never flitting, still is sitting, still is sitting

On the pallid bust of Pallas just above my chamber door;

And his eyes have all the seeming of a demon’s that is dreaming,

And the lamp-light o’er him streaming throws his shadow on the floor;

And my soul from out that shadow that lies floating on the floor

Shall be lifted—nevermore!

-"The Raven" by Edgar Allen Poe

The context of the work in these collections change when you recognize that McQueen is not just imagining these pieces. He's drawing on literature on art of 15th century masters of the Renaissance. He saw the beauty of Poe's writing and used it to articulate the melancholic side of his personality. Seeing as this was one of his last shows, the darkness of his mind becomes apparent, but equally is it a necessary part of his genius. The expression of a mood via not just color, but texture. This room displays a number of pieces illustrate that a feeling can be expressed through cut, color, texture, accents, etc. "The Horn of Plenty" collection shows his incredible range of material. You are put in awe immediately. At the same time the decor of the room follows mirrored walls with incredibly guilt frames to give a more gothic feel to the collection. As you walk through it is impossible to not see yourself in the shadow of the pieces, giving a rather unsettling feeling.

"It's a Jungle Out There" Autumn/ Winter 1997-1998

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty 

Courtesy of the Victoria & Albert Museum

Photograph by: Amanda Chain

The following room "Romantic Primitivism" was little more than a small vestibule of pieces from "Eshu" and "It's a Jungle Out There" collections. McQueen was fascinated with the concept of the "Other." He takes a classic postcolonial approach, but with a twist. He was inspired by other ethnicities, but aimed to have his pieces not appear to be costumes, but rather express elements of other cultures within the clothing. You have no choice but to see yourself in his work that was inspired by various cultures. He felt you didn't need to leave London to see other ways of life. The multicultural presence of globalism was evident in various neighborhoods in London. There is also an element of the natural or original being evident in this room. McQueen saw the duality nature of human beings. There is a constant tension between "civilized" and "barbarian" and this is expressed through the mixture of fabrics and Swarvoski crystals or other glitzy accent pieces.

"Eshu" Autumn/Winter 2000

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty 

Courtesy of the Victoria & Albert Museum

Photograph by: Amanda Chain

This piece especially demonstrates the theme of the "Noble Savage" and is a part of the "Eshu" collection. The beading is reminiscent of the tribal necklaces, and the gauze tulle offers a thin veneer over long legs with a lace detail on the bottom. You see the harmony of the tension McQueen is trying to convey. Both the savage and the citizen can live as one.

One of the most stunning rooms in the collection followed after this was "Romantic Nationalism." This featured pieces inspired by the Scottish clan McQueen as well as by English Heritage. McQueen was a fierce nationalist, but also deeply interested in English history and culture. It would be impossible for him not be inspired by his own heritage, and as this portion of the exhibit displays, the glitz and glamour of the British royalty. 

"The Girl Who Lived in a Tree" Autumn/ Winter 2008

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty 

Courtesy of the Victoria & Albert Museum

Photograph by: Amanda Chain

This is one of the most impressive dresses. It is made of died goose feathers and the fullness of the skirt and sleekness of the design demonstrates the fluidity that can be attained through richer materials. The headpiece is also incredible. It isn't entirely made of gold unfortunately, which would probably have made it way too heavy, but the metal/gold plating show the richness of how McQueen imagined the royalty. The use of decadent horns also display the fickle nature of excess.

"The Girl Who Lived in a Tree" Autumn/ Winter 2008

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty 

Courtesy of the Victoria & Albert Museum

Photograph by: Amanda Chain

One of the most impressive pieces was this gorgeous Sating cape and silk dress with Swarvoski crystal accent. There is such grandeur to this piece, that it is impossible to not admire and oggle this piece, even though there is no human being wearing it. It was in this room of the exhibition it began to dawn on me that this was not a "fashion designer" but this was an artist of the highest form.

The next room was for lack of a better word spectacle. Entitled "Cabinet of Curiosities" draws on the nature of former Enlightenment Age collectors tendency to document and catalogue all the things and objects around the world. After visiting the British Museum's Enlightenment Gallery, this McQueen-esque take on the era makes for a stark commentary on the nature of politics and the way we view the world. My favorite dress was in here, but it was impossible to draw on only one thing or even area. 

"Cabinet of Curiosities"

Curated by: Claire Wilcox

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty 

Courtesy of the Victoria & Albert Museum

Photograph by: Amanda Chain

The room was set as you would have seen a cabinet of curiosity in one of the aristocratic collectors at the turn of the Nineteenth Century. Interspersed with dresses, capes, and shoes, are headpieces, necklaces, and jewelry. If there was any doubt before, McQueen was genuinely a jack of all trades. But what made the room really overwhelm you was by playing an eclectic mix of the high energy shows in which these pieces featured. The shock and awe factor of this room makes this gallery incredibly overwhelming to the senses. The best way to take it in was to sit on one of the benches and just look.

"Cabinet of Curiosities"

Curated by: Claire Wilcox

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty 

Courtesy of the Victoria & Albert Museum

Photograph by: Amanda Chain

After the Cabinet of Curiosities, any other exhibit would be fine to call it the finale, but only in true McQueen fashion, this is only the half of it. What next came the famous hologram of Kate Moss as she wore the dress from the "The Widows of Culloden" Autumn/ Winter 2006 Collection. As she moved the theme to Schindler's List played creating an eerie sense of impending doom. Towards the end of his life, Lee became increasingly interested in death and the afterlife, and perhaps in this we see the beginning of this obsession. 

"The Widows of Culloden" Autumn/ Winter 2006

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty 

Courtesy of the Victoria & Albert Museum

Photograph by: Amanda Chain

Although a number of collections feature in the Romantic Exoticism and Romantic Naturalism, finishing with Plato's Atlantis, his final collection, by far the most captivating was the featurette of "Voss." This collection when debuted challenged the notion of beauty. McQueen challenged the audience to find beauty within. Upon entering the room you see no dresses, only a mirrored box. Slowly, this box illuminated to illustrate gorgeous dresses inside. The box looks starkly like that of an asylum and one can't help but notice the white padding along the top and bottom along this box. You become aware that you are a viewer in the same way you look at animals at a zoo. You get the impression the mannequins are trapped within the box and have no way out.  This clearly owes to the genius of the curators in styling the mannequins in such a way to convey emotion in their starkness. There is a naturalness of the dress that draws on his interest in the use of ostrich feathers and apparent imagery of butterflies.

"Voss" Spring/Summer 2001
Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty

Courtesy of the Victoria & Albert Museum

Photograph by: Amanda Chain

In commenting on his own collection he said, "It was about trying to trap something that wasn't conventionally beautiful to show that beauty comes from within." This was by far one of the most lasting commentaries that in my opinion completely epitomizes the vision of McQueen. You are presented with a voluptuous woman who represents the attempt by McQueen to challenge convention. The video displays a room filled with butterflies and birds all trapped in this Asylum box. Here was an excellent example of how brilliantly the Victoria & Albert Museum was at incorporating the life and essence of his shows when displaying his work. 

"Voss" Spring/Summer 2001

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty 

Courtesy of the Victoria & Albert Museum

Photograph by: Amanda Chain

It isn't enough to just show the work f Alexander McQueen in a museum, one must show it in the context of his shows. He was an artist that put on high energy shows that challenged the way you were meant to see fashion. He was a visionary that wanted to make you see the beauty in the grotesque and to above all things make you see with more than just your eyes. I left this show with a completely different opinion on fashion. Having gone to London Fashion Week it is difficult to see fashion the same way after viewing the trajectory of a single man's genius. These pieces flowed in a way that made you feel as though you were looking at a second layer of skin. They challenged the constrictions of fashion by attempting to bring out a deep truth about human nature within. You walk away feeling the tragedy of his loss, and the torment within him that pushed him to the edge of his creativity and imagination. This exhibit above everything serves as a celebration of his life and work, and is worth a visit for anyone looking to see the evolution of a maverick.

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty
14 March - 2 August

The Victoria & Albert Museum
Cromwell Road
South Kensington
London SW7 2RL

Admission: Daily 10:00-17:30, Friday 10:00-21:30
In Partnership with Swarvoski, sponsored by American Express